The following applies to any type of floor construction, concrete, sand/cement, timber, flagstones, quarry tiling, metal decking, even well-adhered existing floor coverings! 
First check that the floor is dry, ie. Moisture meter or hygrometer readings below the industry standard level of 75% R.H. (See technical info sheets for details.)
Check how flat the floor surface is. Do this by trying to slide a £1 coin under a 1 mtr. straightedge. If the coin will not slide under, then the irregularities are less than 3 mm and JUMPAX will instantly smooth over them without further work being needed.
If some areas are worse than this, roughly smooth them out with a rapid setting mortar such as Ardex A 45 (Ardurapid). It is not necessary to make a perfect job of this, simply make sure that any remaining unevenness is no more than 3 mm. By the time any tools etc. have been cleaned up, this will have set sufficiently to walk over, so you can proceed without delay. NB. If Ardex is used, and correctly mixed, it will continue to set and dry, even under polythene !
Sweep or vacuum out, making sure there are no nails, grit or sharp edges that would puncture a polythene moisture vapour barrier ( see info sheet ), which is laid out over the entire surface and turned 50-100 mm up the walls etc.. Where joints are necessary they are overlapped by 200 mm and taped with aluminium foil tape.
All the JUMPAX panels are the same size, 600 x 1200 mm. The baseboards have a cushioning layer and silver foil on the underside and a coat of interactive contact adhesive, covered with a protective plastic film on the top face. Top boards have only a coat of adhesive on the underside. The panels will be laid out in two overlapping layers with staggered joints in each layer, arranged so that an overlap of approximately 300 mm occurs between the two sets of joints. This creates a single, floating expanse of underlay, which is cushioned and isolated from the floor structure and provides both acoustic and thermal insulation, as well as a degree of softness under foot.
TOOLS needed are very basic. Knife (Stanley or Dolphin type), tape measure, pencil or marker pen, rubber mallet.

CUTTING should always be done with a knife to avoid dust or fragments, which would contaminate the self-adhesive coating and prevent secure bonding. Using the edge of a panel as a straightedge, measure or mark out and score the top face of the piece to be cut two or three times with the knife.
Now, holding the straightedge down firmly in the same position, lift the exposed edge upwards and snap off
KEEP THE JOB CLEAN AT ALL TIMES
ACCURACY is not critical because an expansion gap of approximately 8-10 mm is needed around the perimeter of the room and around all fixed obstacles. It is concealed under a beading or skirting board. Use a collar or rose around pipes. So all the cut edges will be hidden.
Start working from one corner, along a straight wall
Easylay Systems Limited registered in England and Wales.
Company registration No. 5574339